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NEW OPTION: 'UHD Friendly' Firmware Downgrade / Cross-Flash Using Official (Modified) ASUS Flasher

MartyMcNuts,

calibration data is unique for every drive after being manufactured. There is no way to reconstruct this data . If anything else works it's pure luck that it's working more or less OK. But the results burning with such calibration data will be bad or at least compromised. No good idea to promote that.
 
I take it you've not looked at the output in a hex editor and compared it to what you extracted from a drive? Cause I would have thought that, too, but, no. They simply copy the encryption data as far as I can tell. I had done a hex comparison of where Teddy said the calibration data starts and the output from the data mover doesn't match my extracted calibration data.

EDIT: Ohhhh very interesting. Something must have gone horribly wrong the last time I tried this cause I just did it with my ASUS drive's extracted bin onto a clean version and it did indeed seem to keep the calibration data. There ARE differences in the bin files though, just not in the calibration data. So I don't know what those differences mean if anything.

hmmm... Interesting.
 
MartyMcNuts,

calibration data is unique for every drive after being manufactured. There is no way to reconstruct this data . If anything else works it's pure luck that it's working more or less OK. But the results burning with such calibration data will be bad or at least compromised. No good idea to promote that.

Right. What he's saying, and he's correct given my latest test I just now did, is that using the extracted firmware from your drive and using it with the data mover utility it copies the calibration data to the new clean firmware you're downgrading to. When I first did it, I had all kinds of differences. So I don't know what I did to screw it up the first time but he's correct that the calibration is moved as long as you use the eeprom data mover and a clean firmware with your extracted firmware.
 
MartyMcNuts,

calibration data is unique for every drive after being manufactured. There is no way to reconstruct this data . If anything else works it's pure luck that it's working more or less OK. But the results burning with such calibration data will be bad or at least compromised. No good idea to promote that.

I realize that the DOSFLASH method is not ideal (or very safe) which is why I recommend using the modified official flasher method.
 
I realize that the DOSFLASH method is not ideal (or very safe) which is why I recommend using the modified official flasher method.

Exactly. What we're talking about here is the potential of cross flashing a drive and keeping its ability to write discs which apparently doesn't work using the safe method of flashing. Hopefully it's not causing confusion to discuss the idea here.
 
Right. What he's saying, and he's correct given my latest test I just now did, is that using the extracted firmware from your drive and using it with the data mover utility it copies the calibration data to the new clean firmware you're downgrading to. When I first did it, I had all kinds of differences. So I don't know what I did to screw it up the first time but he's correct that the calibration is moved as long as you use the eeprom data mover and a clean firmware with your extracted firmware.

Yep, I thought so... That was the whole point of the EEPROM data mover. SamuriHL, glad your recent test worked correctly.
 
Yep, I thought so... That was the whole point of the EEPROM data mover. SamuriHL, glad your recent test worked correctly.

Yea me too. However, it still presents us with an issue IF we were to use dosflash to try to correct the calibration data for a cross flash. Ideally you'd want the calibration data from a drive with the firmware you're cross flashing to. That means the data mover isn't going to help as you still need your encryption data from your extracted firmware. You'd have to use the data mover and then overwrite the calibration data by hand. What a pain in the ass that is. LOL I MIGHT get ambitious and try it tomorrow given that I have an actual ASUS drive with 3.02 on it and an LG NS60 with 1.00 on it. I could take my extracted firmware file from the ASUS, drop in the LG's encryption data, and flash it to the LG and see if it can write.
 
Yea me too. However, it still presents us with an issue IF we were to use dosflash to try to correct the calibration data for a cross flash. Ideally you'd want the calibration data from a drive with the firmware you're cross flashing to. That means the data mover isn't going to help as you still need your encryption data from your extracted firmware. You'd have to use the data mover and then overwrite the calibration data by hand. What a pain in the ass that is. LOL I MIGHT get ambitious and try it tomorrow given that I have an actual ASUS drive with 3.02 on it and an LG NS60 with 1.00 on it. I could take my extracted firmware file from the ASUS, drop in the LG's encryption data, and flash it to the LG and see if it can write.

It would be interesting to see your results. I only have 2 x LG BH16NS55's. One came with 1.02 so is untouched. The other came with 1.03 so I cross-flashed to ASUS 3.02. (I've never tried to burn a disc though.)
 
It would be interesting to see your results. I only have 2 x LG BH16NS55's. One came with 1.02 so is untouched. The other came with 1.03 so I cross-flashed to ASUS 3.02. (I've never tried to burn a disc though.)

I completely fried a BD-RE trying to write with my LG cross flashed to ASUS 3.02. So I'll try one more time but maybe I'll try on a DVD or something. LOL If it works with that I'll try another BD-RE. It'll definitely be tomorrow before I can get to that. But I'm also curious if it solves our cross flash/write problems.
 
If you still have trouble using ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.02 on the BH16NS55, flash it with WH16NS60 1.00 firmware and give that a try.
That was suggesting you could get your drive to work w/o the original calibration data. Which is not the case. So why this move for cross-flashing? Or was that a misunderstanding? If yes, then please clarify that a drive with lost calibration data can't be revived that way.
 
That was suggesting you could get your drive to work w/o the original calibration data. Which is not the case. So why this move for cross-flashing? Or was that a misunderstanding? If yes, then please clarify that a drive with lost calibration data can't be revived that way.

Who said anything about kconan's drive not having it's calibration data? He has only flashed his BH16NS55 using the safe(r) method, which shouldn't touch the drive's calibration data.
 
That was suggesting you could get your drive to work w/o the original calibration data. Which is not the case. So why this move for cross-flashing? Or was that a misunderstanding? If yes, then please clarify that a drive with lost calibration data can't be revived that way.

Cross flashing has nothing to do with his drive. It has to do with something @testiles and I were looking at yesterday where cross flashed drives aren't able to write to media and a potential way to fix it. Two very different issues.
 
Cross flashing has nothing to do with his drive. It has to do with something @testiles and I were looking at yesterday where cross flashed drives aren't able to write to media and a potential way to fix it. Two very different issues.

Aahhh. Ok. I get ya. I think coopervid is getting a bit muddled up.

I was suggesting to kconan to try firmware WH16NS60 1.00 on his BH16NS55 due to him still having issues with reading his Pacific Rim UHD.
 
@SamuriHL,

I've done a bit of testing over the past couple of hours. This was all done using my back-up BH16NS55. Drive was originally flashed using dosflash a bit over a year ago to ASUS 3.01,then upgraded to 3.02 via the official ASUS 3.02 flasher. It has been this way ever since, until today.

TEST 1:

1. Converted a blu-ray (from iso) to DVD and was successfully written to a blank DVD-R disc.
2. Used ImgBurn to write blu-ray iso to blank (BD-RE) blu-ray disc. Also a success.


I then used dosflash to restore my original LG 1.03 firmware back to the drive. I then used my modified ASUS FW Changer to downgrade from stock LG 1.03 to ASUS 3.02.


TEST 2:

1. Converted a blu-ray (from iso) to DVD and was successfully written to a blank DVD-R disc.
2. Used ImgBurn to write blu-ray iso to blank (BD-RE) blu-ray disc. Also a success.



As you previously mentioned, there are some differences between the dosflash/eeprom generated firmware vs the (safe) modified flasher firmware. I did some comparisons and noted that:

From 1D0000 - 1D360F
dosflash/eeprom generated firmware has all FF FF.
modified flasher firmware has all F0 23.

From 1D3610 - 1DFFFF
dosflash/eeprom generated firmware has all FF FF.
modified flasher firmware has mostly code with some 00 amongst it. (as firmware is from the official flasher, so probably a good thing that it has mostly code)

From 1E0000 - 1E01AF
Both different.


FINAL RESULT:

Anyway, even though there are some differences, I had absolutely zero issues with burning both DVD's and Blu-Ray discs with either firmware cross-flashing method.
 
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Two of us on the ns60 most definitely did. To the point where it obliterated a bdre that couldn't be recovered. Flashed back to LG 1.00 and successfully wrote a different disc with the same iso. Testiles fried like 4 discs in his tests. Flashing back to LG firmware also fixed his write issues.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Two of us on the ns60 most definitely did. To the point where it obliterated a bdre that couldn't be recovered. Flashed back to LG 1.00 and successfully wrote a different disc with the same iso. Testiles fried like 4 discs in his tests. Flashing back to LG firmware also fixed his write issues.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

That's absolutely correct.

After getting my NS60 I used the new flashing method to cross-flash to LG 3.02 as SamuriHL said.

Reading Blu-Rays, UHD, DVD was a breeze.

Writing was another story.

I generated 4 coasters in a row trying to burn a BD-R.

Used the modified LG flasher to restore my NS60 to 1.01 and had zero issues burning thereafter.

Then I safe-flashed to 1.00, with the same burn results.

I haven't re-tried 3.02 because when SamuriHL crossflashed to 3.02 with his NS60, he couldn't burn a BD-R(e) either.


I'll be happy to return to 3.02 and try again though.....


EDIT: Could the difference be that @MartyMcNuts is using the modified ASUS flasher and SamuriHL and I both used the modified LG one?

Or, maybe its an NS60 thing?



T
 
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@SamuriHL, @testiles,

Unfortunately, I don't have a WH16NS60 / BH16NS60. They aren't available in Australia and the pricing from overseas is just crazy! I'll just have to keep an eye on the Auzzie dollar and hope it goes up a bit!
 
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