• AnyStream is having some DRM issues currently, Netflix is not available in HD for the time being.
    Situations like this will always happen with AnyStream: streaming providers are continuously improving their countermeasures while we try to catch up, it's an ongoing cat-and-mouse game. Please be patient and don't flood our support or forum with requests, we are working on it 24/7 to get it resolved. Thank you.

NEW OPTION: 'UHD Friendly' Firmware Downgrade / Cross-Flash Using Official (Modified) ASUS Flasher

Amazing, I'll try.

Which version from the zip do you recommend for the BH16NS55?
 
SamuriHL said:
I would rock the DE version of flash_ASUSW-16D1HT_302.bin.
Click to expand...

Interesting results. My LG BH16NS55 flashed fine to the ASUSW-16D1HT_302.bin. But my Pacific Rim UHD disc freezes exactly in the same moment as before.

But my new ASUS drive BC-12D2HT (downgraded to 3.00) plays perfectly fine without freezing... So it is working better than the LG.
 
1. The flasher worked fine after Windows 10 x32 downloaded/installed the appropriate .NET framework(s).
a. ImgBurn now reports: Drive 2 - Info: HL-DT-ST BD-RE WH16NS40 1.02-01 E: (ATA)
b. Can anyone else who uses ImgBurn confirm that using the same device settings, http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?/topic/9512-how-to-write-a-blu-ray-video-disc-using-imgburn/, which work for dual/single layer Blu-Rays will also work with UHD blank media?
2. [Of course, I have to get a UHD to test a rip with AnyDVD] I have been using these Verbatim BD-R 50GB 6X Blu-ray Recordable Media Disc - 10 Pack Spindle from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CJ9KYC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which have been very reliable. Can someone recommend some good UHD blank media?
3. Some of the most recent comments seem to indicate that using this "Cross Flashing" method may cause some issues? Rips that may not work? Writes? Or, am I just mistaken?
 
kconan said:
Interesting results. My LG BH16NS55 flashed fine to the ASUSW-16D1HT_302.bin. But my Pacific Rim UHD disc freezes exactly in the same moment as before.

But my new ASUS drive BC-12D2HT (downgraded to 3.00) plays perfectly fine without freezing... So it is working better than the LG.
Click to expand...

That's rather interesting. Some drives are just stubborn I guess. LOL
 
Worked flawlessly - Asus BW-161HT arrived from Amazon with 3.03; flashed to 3.02. It was all over in roughly 30 seconds and I'm now ripping Wonder Woman 4K at around 8x speed.

Edit: Windows 10 Pro 1809 / AMD64 , the drive is internal.
 
Last edited:
projectgreendark said:
Worked flawlessly - Asus BW-161HT arrived from Amazon with 3.03; flashed to 3.02. It was all over in roughly 30 seconds and I'm now ripping Wonder Woman 4K at around 8x speed.
Click to expand...

Excellent! It's just so much easier (and safer) to flash drives this way!
 
kconan said:
Ok, may be I should stick with the Asus 3.00 version and see if I find issues, do you agree?

In the future if I want to try, can I flash that LG FW 3.02 to my Asus? And go back again to Asus 3.00 if want to?

Thank you very very much
Click to expand...

I think you are confusing yourself here.

For the BC-12D2HT, the latest firmware is 3.01, which is currently not UHD Friendly. (Thus, I suggested you use BC-12D2HT 3.00, which you have and it is UHD Friendly.)
For the BW-16D1HT, the latest firmware is 3.03, which is currently not UHD Friendly. (The BW-16D1HT 3.02 in the zip file is the UHD Friendly version.) There is also a BW-16D1HT 3.01 but there is really no need for it.)
For the LG's their firmwares are 1.00, 1.01 and 1.02 (based on different model drives). All LG 1.03 firmwares are currently not UHD Friendly.

And yes, you can flash another firmware, then go back, or to another if you wish. There is nothing stopping you.

Hope this clarifies things a bit for you.

Cheers!
 
Yeah it's clear now.

I downgraded the Asus to 3.00, it works flawlessly and quite better than my other LG BH16NS55.

Thanks to everyone involved.
 
Here's some fun info. I had cross flashed my LG NS60 to ASUS 3.02 to test writing a BD-RE. It failed. So my drive is the second cross flashed NS60 drive to fail writing. I was asked to try this because another user has his flashed to ASUS 3.02 and has burned a bunch of coasters. I fried the BD-RE in my attempt...it's no longer recognized at all. Flashing it back to LG 1.00 I was able to format and write another disc with no problem.

Short version: Cross flashed NS60 does not write discs.
 
I may try with my LG BH16NS55 to flash to the Asus 3.00. Last chance to the LG before going to the drawer.
 
kconan said:
I may try with my LG BH16NS55 to flash to the Asus 3.00. Last chance to the LG before going to the drawer.
Click to expand...

There is no point flashing ASUS BC-12D2HT 3.00 to the BH16NS55. If you do that, the LG will no longer be able to burn blu-ray discs! Most people flash ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.02 to the BH16NS55, which makes it about 20% faster.
 
That's what I did but I still have freezes with pacific Rim and mad max uhd discs. And the Asus plays perfectly fine...

It's a test.
 
Failure to write.

I'll stick to the Asus drive and forget about it for a while...
 
MartyMcNuts said:
There is no point flashing ASUS BC-12D2HT 3.00 to the BH16NS55. If you do that, the LG will no longer be able to burn blu-ray discs! Most people flash ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.02 to the BH16NS55, which makes it about 20% faster.
Click to expand...
Has anyone tried cross flashing a drive using the calibration data taken from a drive they're flashing to and then tried burning? For reading I don't think the calibration data makes a lot of difference in these drives but I'm guessing that's why they fail to write when cross flashed. Obviously you wouldn't be able to flash like this the safe way. Just wondering if you or anyone you know have tried it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
kconan said:
Failure to write.

I'll stick to the Asus drive and forget about it for a while...
Click to expand...

If you still have trouble using ASUS BW-16D1HT 3.02 on the BH16NS55, flash it with WH16NS60 1.00 firmware and give that a try.
 
SamuriHL said:
Has anyone tried cross flashing a drive using the calibration data taken from a drive they're flashing to and then tried burning? For reading I don't think the calibration data makes a lot of difference in these drives but I'm guessing that's why they fail to write when cross flashed. Obviously you wouldn't be able to flash like this the safe way. Just wondering if you or anyone you know have tried it.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Isn't that what the EEPROM data mover does? Copies the important drive & calibration data onto the clean firmware?
 
MartyMcNuts said:
Isn't that what the EEPROM data mover does? Copies the important drive & calibration data onto the clean firmware?
Click to expand...

I take it you've not looked at the output in a hex editor and compared it to what you extracted from a drive? Cause I would have thought that, too, but, no. They simply copy the encryption data as far as I can tell. I had done a hex comparison of where Teddy said the calibration data starts and the output from the data mover doesn't match my extracted calibration data.

EDIT: Ohhhh very interesting. Something must have gone horribly wrong the last time I tried this cause I just did it with my ASUS drive's extracted bin onto a clean version and it did indeed seem to keep the calibration data. There ARE differences in the bin files though, just not in the calibration data. So I don't know what those differences mean if anything.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top