[Resolved] Computer locking up ...

[Pantheist]

Up until today I have had no problems backing up discs with AnyDVD & Clone DVD, however today the computer seemed to be sitting there doing nothing after creating the DVD files. I waited half an hour, but Clone DVD hadn't started writing, I couldn't shut the program down no matter what I tried, eventually the computer totally locked and I had to switch the power off.

After restarting and trying again the same thing happened.

I have been reading in one drive and writing to another, they are identical LG drives: GH22LP20 rev 1.00, both new about 1 month ago.

Oddly I found that if I read and write with only one drive (either one) everything goes without a hitch.

The short term fix is to simply read & burn in the same drive, however I installed 2 drives for the purpose of being able to put in an original & blank at the same time... coming back later to find the job complete.

any ideas? I did try reinstalling both AnyDVD and Clone DVD, the discs are Fuji dual layer, and the writing process hadn't started as I was able to re-use the discs that were in the drive when the computer locked up and burn them with no problem, I know you don't recommend Fuji, but I haven't had a single problem with one... well except this but I'm inclined not to blame the discs.

 

[Webslinger]

I know you don't recommend Fuji, but I haven't had a single problem with one... well except this but I'm inclined not to blame the discs.

Bad quality blank media can vary in results from disc to disc, even within the same spindle. With good blank media you can play "find the bad blank" game. With inferior quality blank media you get to play "find the blank that works" game. And even when inferior blank media does work, you can play the "will my backups still play after 6 months (or even after two years)" game.

Use good quality blank media (Taiyo Yuden Premium, Verbatim Datalife Plus, Maxell Plus, Maxell Broadcast Quality). Avoid Ritek, Memorex, Regular Maxell blank media that you can find in most stores that are not made in Japan, Fuji, TDK from Costco, and Princo. Also, on average, it's wise to avoid blank media that's made in China or Hong Kong.

If you're using double layer blank media, use Verbatim +R DL (preferably made in Singapore) or MAM-A 8x +R DL.

GH22LP20

This uses an ide interface.

A. Don't stick source and destination sources on the same ide channel. Don't make both drives share the same cable


B. Ensure that DMA is enabled for your drives: click http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=5083 (#13)


1) Are you using junk blank media? If you're not using Taiyo Yuden (not Valueline), Verbatim Datalife Plus, or Maxell Broadcast Quality, then chances are the answer to this question is "yes". Stay far away from Memorex, Princo, TDK B-grade junk sold from Costcos, Ritek, regular Maxell, Fuji, etc. that are not made in Japan.
For +R DL blank media use Verbatim (preferably made in Singapore) or MAM-A +R DL 8x only.

2) Update your burner's firmware (if available): click this

3) Do not burn at "maximum". Try lowering your burn speed (not below 4x; if you have a 16x burner and 16x rated media try writing to it at 12x instead of 16x; an 8x burn speed on 16x rated media wouldn't be a bad idea either)

For +R DL blank media, try a 4x burn speed. Do not burn at maximum.

4) Do you have Musicmatch Jukebox on your system? If so, click this

5) Remove packet writing software from your system (including Directcd, Nero's Incd, drag to disc, Sonic's Drive Letter Access, Cyberlink's Instantburn, etc.): click http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=15537

6) Click this and read

7)
i) Ensure Anydvd is running.
ii) Put an original movie dvd in your burner. Wait for Anydvd to scan the disc.
iii) Right click the red fox icon on your toolbar.
iv) Select "Create Logfile"
v) Wait for Anydvd to create a log file.
vi) A pop-up screen will appear. Take note of the location where Anydvd created the logfile and the logfile's name. Click "ok".
vii) Windows Explorer will open, and you will see a zip file called "Anydvd_Info_titleofmydisc.zip" (or something similar; see step vi)
viii) When replying or posting in the Slysoft forums, look for the icon that looks like

(in other words, look for the paperclip after clicking "quote" or when creating a new thread)
ix) If you don't see that paperclip icon, click the "go advanced" button. You should see that icon now. Click the paperclip.
x) A small pop-up screen should appear (if it doesn't please ensure your browser is enabled to allow pop-ups from the Slysoft forums)
xi) Click the "Browse" button, and locate and select the .zip file you created.
xii) click "upload"
xiii) Close the window. When you submit reply, or submit a new thread, the .zip file will be attached automatically for us to take a look at

8) Click this to try a different write DLL file

 

[Pantheist]

problem solved

I put each drive on it's own IDE cable and have experienced no further problems. It still strikes me as odd that a hardware set up which had previously worked for a couple months suddenly started to cause problems... but oh well this way is working perfectly so why rock the boat, maybe one day when I'm bored...

 

[Webslinger]

This uses an ide interface.

A. Don't stick source and destination sources on the same ide channel. Don't make both drives share the same cable

I put each drive on it's own IDE cable and have experienced no further problems. It still strikes me as odd that a hardware set up which had previously worked for a couple months suddenly started to cause problems... but oh well this way is working perfectly so why rock the boat, maybe one day when I'm bored...

When using ide, only one device can be active at any given time, which is why source and destination devices should not be sharing the same cable.