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Why not rip DVDs to ISO?

ImgBurn: Q: [I forgot] I never used it for Blu-Ray. Does it require you to choose a layer break for DL Blu-Ray as it does with DVD?
 
TheEmpathicEar said:
ImgBurn: Q: [I forgot] I never used it for Blu-Ray. Does it require you to choose a layer break for DL Blu-Ray as it does with DVD?
Click to expand...
Easy to find out, create an BD ISO with Imgburn that is large enough to fit on a DL blank.
 
DrinkLyeAndDie said:
Just because ImgBurn hasn't been updated since 2013 doesn't mean it's obsolete. Far from it. It's still the best overall burning software out there, IMHO, and it's free. As far as my use goes I haven't had any issues at all. And, best of all it allows you to pick the I/O interface which allows me to select ElbyCDIO which I believe is the better option. That said, people can use whatever software works best for them. :)
Click to expand...

God knows I've said the same thing about DVDShrink for over a decade. LOL!
Unless they somehow change the decades old DVD standard it can't really get obsolete.
-W (Of course I rip to folder first with AnyDVD nowadays.)
 
Clams said:
God knows I've said the same thing about DVDShrink for over a decade. LOL!
Unless they somehow change the decades old DVD standard it can't really get obsolete.
-W (Of course I rip to folder first with AnyDVD nowadays.)
Click to expand...

As long as people don't argue about issues with using AnyDVD and DVD Shrink on-the-fly when it comes to structural protections then I fully agree. :)
 
Ch3vr0n said:
There's is naturally also the saying that applies here. 'if it ain't broken, don't fix it'. IMGBurn in current forum works perfectly. Afaik according to the forums there it's far from abandoned, just busy with other projects. An update is on the todo list.

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Click to expand...

Yep it works well. You can start multiple instances of the program. Still something could be better here: For example if you have several optical drives, and you want to run several (eg. two) ImgBurn instances at the same time. In the first window for exampel there's already a copy process running with first optical drive , while you start a second ImgBurn window, going to make an Image from dics, now the laser head from first optical drive jumps wild around (because drive from first window still preselected). So it's a bit tricky, to not forget to start both ImgBurn windows together to select different optical drives in each window before starting any process, if you want to use two optical drives simultaneously ;)
 
theosch said:
Yep it works well. You can start multiple instances of the program. Still something could be better here: For example if you have several optical drives, and you want to run several (eg. two) ImgBurn instances at the same time. In the first window for exampel there's already a copy process running with first optical drive , while you start a second ImgBurn window, going to make an Image from dics, now the laser head from first optical drive jumps wild around (because drive from first window still preselected). So it's a bit tricky, to not forget to start both ImgBurn windows together to select different optical drives in each window before starting any process, if you want to use two optical drives simultaneously ;)
Click to expand...

I've not experienced that problem. If I open instance one it burns to F:, if I open another instance it defaults to G:
-W
 
It depends what you've set as io handler.

Sent from my Nexus 6P with Tapatalk
 
DrinkLyeAndDie said:
As long as people don't argue about issues with using AnyDVD and DVD Shrink on-the-fly when it comes to structural protections then I fully agree. :)
Click to expand...

AnyDVD has a wonderful check-box under "Programs Settings". It says "Show information window for new media". If you check that you'll get a status pop-up that tells you if the disk has structural protection or not.
Every Shrink lover needs to have that checked - and once checked it stays checked for good. Life gets easy.
-W
 
i'm not. I'm using ElbyCDIO which doesn't do that. You're probably using MS's SPTIO. Anyways we're getting a bit of track here. IT's fine to talk about alternate methods to create a DVD iso. Let's not talk about the specific functions of those tools themselves. Thats beyond the scope of this topic
 
Ch3vr0n said:
Nobody said NOT to use that function at all. Just not on DVDs. The iso ripper is in fact the RECOMMENDED way for Blu-ray discs.
Click to expand...
Okay, so I understand why not to use the ISO ripper for DVDs, but what I don't understand is why it is the recommended way for Blu-Rays. I've been doing folder rips for everything, but if I understand why Blu-Rays should be ripped to ISOs, I am going to start doing that instead.
 
I explained that 2 pages ago in post 14

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Clams said:
This post went over my head. :)
-W
Click to expand...

I've never actually opened another ImgBurn process while I was already burning. I usually open multiple ones at once, set them up to go with the ISOs or folders, fill out the volume name, etc, and just run down the line when one finishes then I start the next after ejecting or whatever I need to do. I hear the completion sound, walk back, click, walk away, etc. I tend to burn while I am away from the computer.

With the above being said, ElbyCDIO is the better I/O interface choice. When I built my new system it involved a clean install and I forgot to switch the I/O interface setting in ImgBurn. My first 3 burns were bad. I was a perplexed and irritated since it was a newer more modern build using my reliable Pioneer BDR-205 that I've been using for quite some time. Then I realized I had forgotten to switch the I/O setting and it was defaulted to SPTI - Microsoft. Switched to ElbyCDIO and every burn has been perfect since.

IMHO, definitely go into the settings and switch to ElbyCDIO if you run any RedFox or Elaborate Bytes software.
 
DrinkLyeAndDie said:
I've never actually opened another ImgBurn process while I was already burning. I usually open multiple ones at once, set them up to go with the ISOs or folders, fill out the volume name, etc, and just run down the line when one finishes then I start the next after ejecting or whatever I need to do. I hear the completion sound, walk back, click, walk away, etc. I tend to burn while I am away from the computer.

With the above being said, ElbyCDIO is the better I/O interface choice. When I built my new system it involved a clean install and I forgot to switch the I/O interface setting in ImgBurn. My first 3 burns were bad. I was a perplexed and irritated since it was a newer more modern build using my reliable Pioneer BDR-205 that I've been using for quite some time. Then I realized I had forgotten to switch the I/O setting and it was defaulted to SPTI - Microsoft. Switched to ElbyCDIO and every burn has been perfect since.

IMHO, definitely go into the settings and switch to ElbyCDIO if you run any RedFox or Elaborate Bytes software.
Click to expand...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161982354446, 25 RIDATA 6X Blank Blu-Ray BD-R DL Dual Double Layer 50GB Inkjet Printable Disc. This is the media I have been using. Sorry for the link. Your post made me think. Is it the "cheap media" that leads to a couple of "bad burns" in every batch? Or, could it also be what you mention above? Or, do you recommend other media that may be comparably priced?
 
TheEmpathicEar said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161982354446, 25 RIDATA 6X Blank Blu-Ray BD-R DL Dual Double Layer 50GB Inkjet Printable Disc. This is the media I have been using. Sorry for the link. Your post made me think. Is it the "cheap media" that leads to a couple of "bad burns" in every batch? Or, could it also be what you mention above? Or, do you recommend other media that may be comparably priced?
Click to expand...

There are a list of factors that all can impact the success or failure of burns. The quality of the media definitely is a key thing, burn speed, drive quality, etc. Heck, I even check for dust on my blank media before I put them in the drive. When you get into 50 GB DL discs then you are adding another layer of complexity that can lead to issues. That said, I have thus far refused to really get into burning to BD-DL blanks due to pricing. I buy 25 GB blanks and most movies don't require that much compression to fit on a BD25 blank when it's a movie-only backup.

Personally, minus these 3 bad burns I had I cannot tell you the last time I have had a bad burn dating back to my old system using any of my drives. So, I absolutely am blaming my forgetting to switch to ElbyCDIO and it being all about the I/O interface for my problems. I've been lucky and haven't run into an issue where I get a few bad discs in every batch and I'm not using the best BD25 blanks but I have yet to run into a backup that doesn't play on either of my Oppo standalones, my Samsung standalone, or any of my BD drives and I'm including burns created years ago. Unfortunately, when my stack of blanks runs out I'll have to do some research because the manufacturer I use has changed their discs and the quality has dropped [more].

NOTE: I'm not recommending that people pick lesser quality media and that merely using ElbyCDIO will make things work perfectly or better and negate the decision to skimp on media quality. I happen to and I also acknowledge that at some point it'll come back to bite me at which time I can't be upset because I walked in knowing the risk. I accept full responsibility. In short, do as I say and not as I do. :)
 
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DrinkLyeAndDie said:
There are a list of factors that all can impact the success or failure of burns. The quality of the media definitely is a key thing, burn speed, drive quality, etc. Heck, I even check for dust on my blank media before I put them in the drive. When you get into 50 GB DL discs then you are adding another layer of complexity that can lead to issues. That said, I have thus far refused to really get into burning to BD-DL blanks due to pricing. I buy 25 GB blanks and most movies don't require that much compression to fit on a BD25 blank when it's a movie-only backup.

Personally, minus these 3 bad burns I had I cannot tell you the last time I have had a bad burn dating back to my old system using any of my drives. So, I absolutely am blaming my forgetting to switch to ElbyCDIO and it being all about the I/O interface for my problems. I've been lucky and haven't run into an issue where I get a few bad discs in every batch and I'm not using the best BD25 blanks but I have yet to run into a backup that doesn't play on either of my Oppo standalones, my Samsung standalone, or any of my BD drives and I'm including burns created years ago. Unfortunately, when my stack of blanks runs out I'll have to do some research because the manufacturer I use has changed their discs and the quality has dropped [more].

NOTE: I'm not recommending that people pick lesser quality media and that merely using ElbyCDIO will make things work perfectly or better and negate the decision to skimp on media quality. I happen to and I also acknowledge that at some point it'll come back to bite me at which time I can't be upset because I walked in knowing the risk. I accept full responsibility. In short, do as I say and not as I do. :)
Click to expand...

I used to get Verbatim BD-25. But, with my dual-core processor desktop, I had to do the [Blu-Ray] copy process overnight. It takes a long time to "shrink". The Verbatim BD-50 10 pack, however, cost about 45USD. Or, about 4USD a disc. I don't think I ever had any trouble with these discs. i.e. "Bad burns", write errors, etc. Conclusion: even though the RIDATA resulted in a few bad burns, the average cost per disc is still no more than 2USD.
 
TheEmpathicEar said:
I used to get Verbatim BD-25. But, with my dual-core processor desktop, I had to do the [Blu-Ray] copy process overnight. It takes a long time to "shrink". The Verbatim BD-50 10 pack, however, cost about 45USD. Or, about 4USD a disc. I don't think I ever had any trouble with these discs. i.e. "Bad burns", write errors, etc. Conclusion: even though the RIDATA resulted in a few bad burns, the average cost per disc is still no more than 2USD.
Click to expand...

My discs were a BD25 50-packs for $25 or less and I've been using them since I bought my first Blu-ray drive. So, I was paying 50 cents or less per disc. I need to start doing research again since my stash is getting low. I would expect that 50 GB blank costs have also dropped since the last I really looked at things, as well.

NOTE: As always, disc quality is key in results. If you start out with poor quality media then you have already dug a hole and jumped in before you even start burning.
 
This is getting a bit too of topic. If you wish to discuss blank discs, please do it in the proper section.

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