I just installed the any dvd and clone dvd. I burned 4 dvds and 3 of them will not play. I have tried 3 different dvd players....same thing. Any suggestions? I didn't receive any errors while burning.Should I be burning on dvd plus or negatives?
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DVD + or DVD -
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TM2-Megatron
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I only buy the Verbatim +R, and I've never had any compatibility problems with either of my players. And one of them is a pretty crappy, fairly old model. With the booktyping, I believe +R are the most compatible as a player will just see it as a DVD-ROM.
lostinlodos
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+ media for virtually total compatibility on home players
- media same for portable players
+ allows booktyping if your writing software supports that
RAM media doesn't work on 99% of low-end players but allows you to write a disc over and over and over and over....
- media same for portable players
+ allows booktyping if your writing software supports that
RAM media doesn't work on 99% of low-end players but allows you to write a disc over and over and over and over....
Chris Gonzales
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Hi, here you find a short article about DVD formats:
http://www.dvd-supply.com/whisdvdvdvan.html
We often recommend Verbatim and Sony, but that's merely because we're expected to recommend *something*
As a rule of thumb: If your blanks work, e.g. your writer can write to them and they play in your players - stick to that brand and type.
If you experience burning or playing problems - first reduce the writing speed.
If this fails, update the firmware of your writer.
If this fails, change the blanks, try a different brand or type. The blanks are as important to the writing process as tyres are to a car. A Ferrari won't perform well with wooden tyres. And the quality of the blanks varies, even within the very same brand you are currently using.
Remember, it's a free world, so you are free to choose.
http://www.dvd-supply.com/whisdvdvdvan.html
We often recommend Verbatim and Sony, but that's merely because we're expected to recommend *something*
As a rule of thumb: If your blanks work, e.g. your writer can write to them and they play in your players - stick to that brand and type.
If you experience burning or playing problems - first reduce the writing speed.
If this fails, update the firmware of your writer.
If this fails, change the blanks, try a different brand or type. The blanks are as important to the writing process as tyres are to a car. A Ferrari won't perform well with wooden tyres. And the quality of the blanks varies, even within the very same brand you are currently using.
Remember, it's a free world, so you are free to choose.
mike20021969
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Webslinger
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Memorex tends to be pretty low-end junk as does TDK (especially the stuff from Costcos).
Use Verbatim, Taiyo Yuden (not valueline), Maxell Plus, or Maxell Broadcast Quality (don't use regular Maxell).
Sonys tend to be merely average
I prefer +Rs booktyped to "-rom"
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My main question is.... So, does AnyDVD/CloneDVD allow setting 'booktype'??
And otherwise, to digress, weren't -R blanks the first recordable discs available to the public on store shelves? Didn't +R discs come after?
Not to argue, but without knowing about booktyping, I've had more luck burning -R's. I'm interested in 'ease of compatibility' 'off the shelf' since I'm PC/network/CAD tech and complete novices ask about DVD copying. They need the simplest means possible to avoid aggravation (for me!). I don't want to come set up their systems all the time. I've used Sony/Fuji discs probably mostly, but also probably Maxell/Memorex/Teac... and haven't had problems that I recall on my desktops. (and not here to discuss 'DVD Rot'.) I started with Sony burners and now have an eMachine desktop with whatever off-brand burner in that desktop. I use a Sony DVD/VCR player myself. And recommend Verbatim discs when pressed.
I also have an older eMachine notebook that burned -R's fine, burned +R's that would -not- play... and after I've upgraded to Vista Home Premium everything is working fine except burning (Memorex) -R's (either won't recognize disc or fails quickly), I have to use Maxell -RW's, which are only the second disc type I've tried since Vista upgrade. Yes I know Memorex is considered inferior, but really, I've not had much trouble with name brands (even some no-name), although I've stuck with Fuji. I'd have to go back through the dozens of discs I've burned with notebook and desktop to see what other brands... I've rarely run into problems with discs, except the +R on notebook. Anyway...
Now I've finally found this topic about 'booktyping'... I haven't looked through all the program options yet... I've just uninstalled AnyDVD 6303 (to try a re-install or an earlier version I used on XP), so I can't check options there at the moment and CloneDVD burner doesn't seem to have much in the way of options, let alone 'booktyping'.
To keep it simple, I've been recommending AnyDVD/CloneDVD and not Roxio or Nero or any other disc access/burning softwares with multitudes of 'features... to avoid 'user' hassles. They ask, I give best answer...
Not that I'm going to train those 'users', but I just want to know...
Booktyping in AnyDVD/CloneDVD? (I'll go re-install AnyDVD now)
And otherwise, to digress, weren't -R blanks the first recordable discs available to the public on store shelves? Didn't +R discs come after?
Not to argue, but without knowing about booktyping, I've had more luck burning -R's. I'm interested in 'ease of compatibility' 'off the shelf' since I'm PC/network/CAD tech and complete novices ask about DVD copying. They need the simplest means possible to avoid aggravation (for me!). I don't want to come set up their systems all the time. I've used Sony/Fuji discs probably mostly, but also probably Maxell/Memorex/Teac... and haven't had problems that I recall on my desktops. (and not here to discuss 'DVD Rot'.) I started with Sony burners and now have an eMachine desktop with whatever off-brand burner in that desktop. I use a Sony DVD/VCR player myself. And recommend Verbatim discs when pressed.
I also have an older eMachine notebook that burned -R's fine, burned +R's that would -not- play... and after I've upgraded to Vista Home Premium everything is working fine except burning (Memorex) -R's (either won't recognize disc or fails quickly), I have to use Maxell -RW's, which are only the second disc type I've tried since Vista upgrade. Yes I know Memorex is considered inferior, but really, I've not had much trouble with name brands (even some no-name), although I've stuck with Fuji. I'd have to go back through the dozens of discs I've burned with notebook and desktop to see what other brands... I've rarely run into problems with discs, except the +R on notebook. Anyway...
Now I've finally found this topic about 'booktyping'... I haven't looked through all the program options yet... I've just uninstalled AnyDVD 6303 (to try a re-install or an earlier version I used on XP), so I can't check options there at the moment and CloneDVD burner doesn't seem to have much in the way of options, let alone 'booktyping'.
To keep it simple, I've been recommending AnyDVD/CloneDVD and not Roxio or Nero or any other disc access/burning softwares with multitudes of 'features... to avoid 'user' hassles. They ask, I give best answer...
Not that I'm going to train those 'users', but I just want to know...
Booktyping in AnyDVD/CloneDVD? (I'll go re-install AnyDVD now)
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Webslinger
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No
Click http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=476 and read step 3 fully
Before dvd+rs, you mean? Yes
Yes
Properly booktyped dvd+rs are more compatible, in particular when dealing with copy protection checks.
Mostly average to o.k.
Junk, unless they were made in Japan (often by Taiyo Yuden . . . and even then Taiyo Yuden began to dump their "B" grade stuff onto Fuji after awhile)
Also junk, unless they were made in by Taiyo Yuden or by Maxell's own plant in Japan (Maxell Broadcast Quality is excellent)
Mostly junk
Memorex outsources its contracts to the lowest bidder. Memorex does not make its own blank media.
Junk, unless they are made in Japan (by Taiyo Yuden)
Sony doesn't make its own burners.
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Ok, thanks for the info/assessments... I'm re-'enlightened'. 
Sorry to run on, but...
I've scrounged around before on media quality rating sites (to get the Verbatim recommendation), but for me, I'm just not going to go to the trouble of finding where (brand xyz)'s current disc factory lot is coming from (if that's possible) every time... Fuji may be junk, now, for demanding users... I guess I'm not one. I burn 'em, I play 'em, I see no 'artifacts'... what's 'junk' about that? (and few, if any, 'coasters'... guess TY made 'em).
When I go to the store, Taiyo Yuden isn't on the shelf and how I'd find their client list 'of the moment' (it seems), I dunno, except online... fuss and bother! ...(is there a factory id on the inner ring? Not that we'd see in the store.) Seems fairly mercurial anyway. I've heard the dismal assessment of Memorex before... only picked up some because I needed a cheap quick fix, they sat on the shelf unfortunately and now I've got 'bit' I guess (besides having Vista rather than XP drivers now). Usually I buy certain brand-name spindles of 100 or 50... as long as they work to my level of expectation and don't 'rot' right away, that's good enough for me... (but then I like 128k bitrate mp3's too, with DFX's enhancer... however, given changes in MP3 stores offerings, I'll take 256k files now). Seems Taiyo Yuden supplied a number of brands, which you can't depend on always being the case...
As for burners... being a wee bit definitive on my Sony reference, aren't we?
Sony sells the DRU-xxx PC burners under the Sony brand name, so I label it a Sony. Didn't know they farmed them out... I just haven't had that much trouble burning (outside of +R's on the XP notebook), even with my eMachines. eMachine is probably viewed as junk too, but they work for me... saves money, enables whole system replacement more often (for technology changes, not failures or quality). I do want to upgrade for some new gaming, but I knew that going in...
I tend to Keep It Simple & Stable anyway... few background processes, etc.
I just reference the drives by either their brand/model on the box they come in, or the ID presented in Device manager, or if I really care, some disc info tool, if I have to go that far. So to me, a Sony burner is a Sony burner... PC or stand-alone recorder... I expect/hope they're not accepting 'junk' hardware.
I see there are bitsetting tools out there, so I'll go read the link you gave... and maybe try +R's again... thanks, and sorry if I'm being 'cavalier' with my media/drive references/preferences. Guess I'm either chronically lucky, manage to work around limitations, or just don't need those higher quality products. Just watching a movie... didn't have a lot of coasters until these Memorex failures... teach me to try the cheap end of the pool.
To digress further...... I also think High Def is a joke in some ways... particularly whenever I see pixelated motion on any/every screen in the store... or artifacts. Analog tv may be less sharp but pixelation is so... step backward. Yes they set up in-store poorly, but digitally discrete can sometimes be a poor substitute for experiencing analog life... complexity is (job) security though
I'll stop now. Again, thanks for the info. My novices aren't up to it, I'm sure... chronic unpaid support is so not my life.
Sorry to run on, but...
I've scrounged around before on media quality rating sites (to get the Verbatim recommendation), but for me, I'm just not going to go to the trouble of finding where (brand xyz)'s current disc factory lot is coming from (if that's possible) every time... Fuji may be junk, now, for demanding users... I guess I'm not one. I burn 'em, I play 'em, I see no 'artifacts'... what's 'junk' about that? (and few, if any, 'coasters'... guess TY made 'em).
When I go to the store, Taiyo Yuden isn't on the shelf and how I'd find their client list 'of the moment' (it seems), I dunno, except online... fuss and bother! ...(is there a factory id on the inner ring? Not that we'd see in the store.) Seems fairly mercurial anyway. I've heard the dismal assessment of Memorex before... only picked up some because I needed a cheap quick fix, they sat on the shelf unfortunately and now I've got 'bit' I guess (besides having Vista rather than XP drivers now). Usually I buy certain brand-name spindles of 100 or 50... as long as they work to my level of expectation and don't 'rot' right away, that's good enough for me... (but then I like 128k bitrate mp3's too, with DFX's enhancer... however, given changes in MP3 stores offerings, I'll take 256k files now). Seems Taiyo Yuden supplied a number of brands, which you can't depend on always being the case...
As for burners... being a wee bit definitive on my Sony reference, aren't we?
Sony sells the DRU-xxx PC burners under the Sony brand name, so I label it a Sony. Didn't know they farmed them out... I just haven't had that much trouble burning (outside of +R's on the XP notebook), even with my eMachines. eMachine is probably viewed as junk too, but they work for me... saves money, enables whole system replacement more often (for technology changes, not failures or quality). I do want to upgrade for some new gaming, but I knew that going in...
I tend to Keep It Simple & Stable anyway... few background processes, etc.
I just reference the drives by either their brand/model on the box they come in, or the ID presented in Device manager, or if I really care, some disc info tool, if I have to go that far. So to me, a Sony burner is a Sony burner... PC or stand-alone recorder... I expect/hope they're not accepting 'junk' hardware.
I see there are bitsetting tools out there, so I'll go read the link you gave... and maybe try +R's again... thanks, and sorry if I'm being 'cavalier' with my media/drive references/preferences. Guess I'm either chronically lucky, manage to work around limitations, or just don't need those higher quality products. Just watching a movie... didn't have a lot of coasters until these Memorex failures... teach me to try the cheap end of the pool.
To digress further...
... I also think High Def is a joke in some ways... particularly whenever I see pixelated motion on any/every screen in the store... or artifacts. Analog tv may be less sharp but pixelation is so... step backward. Yes they set up in-store poorly, but digitally discrete can sometimes be a poor substitute for experiencing analog life... complexity is (job) security though I'll stop now. Again, thanks for the info. My novices aren't up to it, I'm sure... chronic unpaid support is so not my life.
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Webslinger
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If you're referring to the digitalfaq you can read my opinion of it here: http://forum.slysoft.com/showthread.php?t=3118 (but be warned; your eyes may bleed)
We'll see how long they last. As for TY making your coasters, that wouldn't surprise me, because when TY was at the end of supplying Fuji, TY was dumping its B grade material onto Fuji (some of it was stuff that TY would not see fit to sell under its own name).
There's a very good reason. They outsource to the lowest bidder; the quality of their stuff is relatively inconsistent; people whose job it is to depend on quality blank media refuse to use them. The evidence for this is corroborated on a few well respected forums and sites where people test blank media.
Provided it's not Taiyo Yuden's valueline or B grade stuff, then, in general, you can depend on it (some bonding issues aside).
They don't make any of their burners. So (and I mean no offense) stating "Sony" is fairly meaningless.
No comment
I build my own systems.
You may be surprised.
Motion blur (higher end sets . . . $2300+ typically or so with 120hz processing help to eliminate that) and/or bad signal source may be the cause.
HD-DVDs and Blu-rays walk all over SD, no matter how good the upconversion (although the Oppo 981HD does an impressive job).
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Web... for whatever subject, I generally search out several reviews, hopefully sans 'blanket' statements... the only personal opinion I'd follow is my own... opinion of the info presented. I see that FAQ site lists MXL, TDK, Sony, (Fuji) as 'class' 1 (or 2)... I just look for 'better' quality usually, not 'best' (and more expensive)... but I'm disappointed in the variability of suppliers to vendors... hard to tell who's supplying ...and what grade, at any moment, although I haven't seen Verbatim 'dissed'. I was suggesting TY made my discs that were -not- coasters , by chance... Y'all help me/us to avoid the worse quality anyway, while shelf selection is sometimes lacking, and price is moderating.
How long they last? Well, I don't need 100 years and after 10, they may not be 'classic' enough anyway, and storage may no longer be on 'discs'...
Mine are in a cool, dark place...
Perhaps I could have said Sony-branded burner but it was a generic remark, and the actual maker of a model can be looked up at any moment... I would (and have) built my own systems, but eMachines suffices for my wallet lately, although I'm not playing the -latest- games (where are my priorities?)!
Motion blurrrrr is one thing but pixelation just destroys the 'moment'... having to wait for 120+hz to come down to the masses/price is one thing, but at least we may have one (Blu-ray) format for HD media... need cheaper media!
, by chance... Y'all help me/us to avoid the worse quality anyway, while shelf selection is sometimes lacking, and price is moderating.How long they last? Well, I don't need 100 years and after 10, they may not be 'classic' enough anyway, and storage may no longer be on 'discs'...
Mine are in a cool, dark place
...Perhaps I could have said Sony-branded burner but it was a generic remark, and the actual maker of a model can be looked up at any moment... I would (and have) built my own systems, but eMachines suffices for my wallet lately, although I'm not playing the -latest- games (where are my priorities?)!
Motion blurrrrr is one thing but pixelation just destroys the 'moment'... having to wait for 120+hz to come down to the masses/price is one thing, but at least we may have one (Blu-ray) format for HD media... need cheaper media!
Verbatim media is readily available at Best Buy, Office Max and Sam's Club stores at very reasonable prices when on special (at least twice a month) and the price is most likely as cheap or cheaper than you are paying for the low quality media.