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UHD "Friendly" Drives

Martin Conley

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Jan 26, 2019
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I am getting errors trying to open my UHD disks. My guess is that my Pioneer BDR-XD07J-UHD is an official UHD drive and not a UHD "friendly" drive.

An example:
Summary for drive B: (AnyDVD HD 8.3.3.0, BDPHash.bin 18-12-06)
PIONEER BD-RWBDR-XD07U 1.00
Drive (Hardware) Region: 0 (not set!)
Current profile: BD-ROM
Media is a Blu-ray disc.

Total size: 28595488 sectors (55850 MBytes)
Video Blu-ray label: DEADPOOL
Media is AACS protected!
Drive supports bus encryption!
Disc wants bus encryption!
couldn't retrieve AGID (bus encryption)!
ERROR processing Blu-ray disc!

Where can I find a list of UHD "friendly" drives? Also, I need an external drive. (My PC is a NUC.)

Thanks,
Martin
 
You can find it on Google 'uhd friendly drives'. There's a few external ones but by now they're near impossible to find/get

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk
 
Thanks - I purchased an LG WH16NS40 and an external USB 3.0 enclosure for $113.53 on Amazon.

Martin
 
Nice!

Does it still have UHD-friendly firmware or are you going to have to downgrade?


T

Oh damn... we'll see...

If not I'll use the information in this thread to dump and downgrade the firmware on the drive. Glad I still have my previous 8 year old PC lying around. It's drives have been wiped but that method boots from an OS on a USB stick so that should not be a problem.

Martin
 
Oh damn... we'll see...

If not I'll use the information in this thread to dump and downgrade the firmware on the drive. Glad I still have my previous 8 year old PC lying around. It's drives have been wiped but that method boots from an OS on a USB stick so that should not be a problem.

Martin

Good luck then, Martin.

Let us know how it goes.


T
 
Are any of you owners of an LG bh16ns40? Is there a certain firmware version I have to run? I'd really like to try this uhd disc stuff. thanks
 
Google van tell you that, but I believe that model needs to run 1.00 or 1.01 or it's screwed.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk
 
Thanks - I purchased an LG WH16NS40 and an external USB 3.0 enclosure for $113.53 on Amazon.

Martin

113$ for an USB enclosure alone, WTF??

Never mind.

You could get it quite cheaper. Finding an old enclosure.
Or getting one e.g. by doing some small handicrafts with few a bought metal sheets with fitting lengths:
lenght ODD + few more cm (longer and shorter ODDs)+ length PCB USB/SATA-adapter and cable+ a few centimeters (free play)

Then e.g. buying an cheap external HDD-case

Example:
Fantec DB-ALU3e-6G (3.5 inch HDD box):
around 25-30€
with shipping here (amazon.com is overprized, see amazon.de)

https://geizhals.eu/fantec-db-alu3e-6g-schwarz-1693-a1172930.html
(SATA<-> eSATA + USB 3.0) with Asmedia 1153E chip

or look on ebay :)
And a SATA 15pin + 7pin (Male/Female) extension cable short length helping absorb shocks better, instead if were plugging ODD directly to the SATA-female dock.

Then remove its Printed circuit board and fix it to an old enclosure /or own handcraft.
Firmware "140509_A1_82_40.bin" for AMS1153E, you can flash later, if needed, which supports SCSI-Unmap<->TRIM for SSDs , (but not ODDs)

I have tested this in the past with this kind of hardware successfully.. Works like a charm.

You need to flash Firmware "141125_21_00_00_ODD.bin" for ASM1153E (which is Optical Disc Drive) compatible, as all other firmwares use USB-attched SCSI protocol and I had to learn also with several different SATA-USB-adapters, that SATA-ATAPI devices just function with firmwares using USB-BOTP, and the Raidsonic 5.25 boxes I had bought advertised for ODD, all use USB-BOTP.

Firmware "141125_21_00_00_ODD.bin and MPTool for ASM1153E you get on USBdev.ru
ODDs tested working.
---

Maybe it inspires a bit to get s.th., maybe even better to a lower price. ;)
 
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@theosch,

yeah... the firmware for these enclosures is horrible and most of the times outdated. I bought a slim BD drive some years ago plus an enclosure for my laptop. That didn't really work until I updated the firmware for the JMicron chip JMS539 that runs the enclosure. Before only USB 2 connections instead of USB 3 as advertised and problems, problems, problems....
 
113$ for an USB enclosure alone, WTF??

Lol.

I took what Martin said to mean he got both the drive and the enclosure for $113 total.

So I thought he got a good deal!


I recently bought an OWC enclosure and it was around $50.

It's probably overpriced but it looks outstanding, fits the drive like a glove, and has performed flawlessly so far.

Basically it's indistinguishable from a ready-made external drive.

So I'm not complaining.


T
 
OK. Sry it was just a bit unclearly expressed (for my understanding).
As prices ranges partly get extremely high, e.g. for external UHD drives, no thing wonders me if an external casing alone would cost that much ;)

@Martin Conley
Could you check s.th. small for me?
The interesting part would be, if the SATA-USB-converter in your USB-enclosure could run an ATAPI device in USB-atached-SCSI protocol mode.

Could you check if your casing supports UASP with Optical drives (=ATAPI) devices? And report back?

https://winaero.com/blog/check-if-your-usb-3-0-device-supports-usb-attached-scsi-uas-protocol/

Thank you
--
So far I have not seen any SATA-USB-adapters, I could test, that would support ATAPI-devices in UASP mode.
(Just via the older USB-Bulk-Only-Protocol transfer mode, <=can be slower).

(A slower syptom via USB-BOTP I experienced on my adapters:

per USB:
Slower random accessing speed:
when accessing directory or file or when winding through Blu-ray disc playing back:
Drive unit's laser head appears to jump around more often,
drive a bit longer busy initializing inserted discs etc,
(a bit delayed, compared via SATA/eSATA)
(Besides from that playback by itself runs totally smoothly.)

connected via eSATA from adaper (or SATA):
Faster random access speed:
Drive unit's laser head appears to move around less often to access a directory or file, at least not delayed
(Beside from that playback by itself runs 100% smooth anyway)
 
Last edited:
OK. Sry it was just a bit unclearly expressed (for my understanding).
As prices ranges partly get extremely high, e.g. for external UHD drives, no thing wonders me if an external casing alone would cost that much ;)

No, listen. Now that you said that I'm not sure which way he meant it (lol).

Maybe @Martin Conley can clarify.


Also, Martin I just got a similar drive and had to downgrade the firmware.

If you still need to do this, are you aware there's a new method that takes just a few minutes to downgrade? Minutes.

Will explain it if you are not already aware and need to know.

Holla!


T
 
No, listen. Now that you said that I'm not sure which way he meant it (lol).
{...}
Maybe @Martin Conley can clarify.

No, no, I didn't intend to say you didn't understand him or that it was you expressing unclearly. I guess I just misinterpreted Martin.

Now I checked on amazon and eg. the 5.25 inch enclosure "Vantec NST-536S3-BK NexStar DX USB 3.0 External" in fact just costs about 45$, +around 70$ for an NS50 compatible drive, so in the end sums up normally.
So those externals not that high pricy as I previously expected.

---
Also, Martin I just got a similar drive and had to downgrade the firmware.

If you still need to do this, are you aware there's a new method that takes just a few minutes to downgrade? Minutes.

https://forum.redfox.bz/threads/downgrade-uhd-drives-to-friendly-the-easy-and-safe-way.76551/

If testile meant this way, I tested myself, works pretty damn good.
(In the description ,is the download link with "Downgrade Enabled Firmware.zip"
The trick, in the zip file are specially modified Clean firmwares, so that it allows "BH14NS40_N1.00-A4_patched.exe" to downgrade from UHD-(UN)friendly to friendly.

(Standard Clean-firmwares from "Clean_NS50_compatible_firmwares.7z" are blocked by the "BH14NS40_N1.00-A4_patched.exe" when an (UN)friendly one is currently installed)

Big Advantage:
It doesn't require hex editing or dumping firmware. The new method uses cleaned firmware that has already been patched for downgrade enable and allows you to use a patched exe flasher to flash it in Windows. No sata->ide nonsense, no booting to dos, no building a winpe....just straight up flashing. And yes, you can cross flash with it, as well. And also yes, it works on external USB drives.

I made my LG BH16NS55 1.02 an ASUS BW16D1HT 3.02 w/o any hassle and fumbling wit EEPROM calibration data since all is preserved that way.

---

Anyway Martin knows how to dump original firmware, which is anyway not a bad idea ;)
(but not too much significant with the "new safe way downgrade method.)

https://forum.redfox.bz/threads/dum...hd-friendly-devices.74479/page-29#post-498000
Very cool... The firmware downgrade was a breeze thanks to TeddyRaspin's excellent write-up and his DOSFLASH and EEPROM data mover tools, and MartyMcNuts' recommendation to use AOMEI PE Builder 2.0 to create a Win10PE usb stick.
{...}
 
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No, no, I didn't intend to say you didn't understand him or that it was you expressing unclearly. I guess I just misinterpreted Martin.

No worries. I understood exactly what you meant.

I was agreeing with you since I looked at his sentence and realized it could be interpreted either way.


So those externals not that high pricy as I previously expected.

Yeah, they're price is inflated but not so bad.

Most likely Martin did pay $113 total for both.


If testile meant this way, I tested myself, works pretty damn good.

Yes, that's the method I meant.

I see on another thread that Martin already downgraded and that's exactly the method he used!

This method does work really well and is as safe, simple, easy, and quick as you can get.


Anyway Martin knows how to dump original firmware, which is anyway not a bad idea ;)
(but not too much significant with the "new safe way downgrade method.)

As you say, dumping your original firmware is not really necessary since the new flasher's using the manufacturer's flashing method which has built-in checks-and-balances.

But still I wanted to backup my original firmware. Don't know how to dump it so what I did was download the firmware the drive shipped with from the manufacturer's website and use SamuriHL's tool to make it a downgrade-enabled bin, that could be used with the new tool to restore my firmware.

Funny though, the firmware turned out to be already downgrade enabled by the manufacturer! They don't care if you downgrade to this version since it has those loopholes locked up tight! (lol)

Still Samuri's tool extracted the bin file from the zip I downloaded.

Now, I have the ability to restore the drive's original firmware with the new tool should I ever need it (even though I can't see why I ever would. But just a safety precaution).



T
 
{...}
But still I wanted to backup my original firmware. Don't know how to dump it so what I did was download the firmware the drive shipped with from the manufacturer's website and use SamuriHL's tool to make it a downgrade-enabled bin{...}
{...}

Just in a worst case, what if EEPROM loses content, at least in area with laser calibration data and drv value, or it was fully erased, that method wouldn't help to restore your original firmware, at least not entirely, correct?

But only a theoretical question, not so important :)

But interesting method, and I'm not sure if I could follow all, (not done this in past)
---

Do you have a computer with IDE mode ?
Do you have external UHD unit with USB only, so without SATA internally?

By the way, I just tested Dosflash 2.0 with Win10 PE-method, to make a further dump of my Asus BW-16D1HT unit.
Just took a 64+32 Bit integrated Win10 installation usb-flash-drive, already having.
And booted the 32Bit version (the Installation-Windows-Boot-Manager will present Bootmenu to select 32 Bit or 64 Bit version)

In WinPE, pressed SHIFT+F10 to open cmd box. Opened directory with Dosflash, and started "DosFlash32_BH16NS40.exe"
Not necessary to disable driver any signature signing. (Tried this, but Win10PE refuses to disable it)

Dosflash_2.0 window opens up perfectly, and pressed "Read" (read-tab was preselected)

Made a file compare check between "new" (by Dosflash_2.0 + Win10PE), and old one (by Dosflash_1.7 + FreeDOS) I already had. Checksum identical.
Then I'd say Dosflash_2.0 might be safer than with Dosflash_1.7. As the task "Read" appears to be preselected.


---
[Edit]
On my Asrock motherboard (six * SATA) Dosflash 2.0 on WinPE sees the first four SATA ports,
Limited to first four (4) SATA plugs: This was with ->"Storage-configuration" ->Compatible
All SATA ports 0-5 detected with: Storage configuration ->Enhanced ->"IDE"
--
In Dosflash 1.7 + FreeDOS it was other way around:
Limited to first four (4) SATA plugs: ->Storage-configuration ->Enhanced ->IDE:
All SATA ports 0-5 detected with: ->"Storage-configuration" ->Compatible:
--
So for DOS ->Storage Configuration ->"Compatible" appears to be more suitabl to see all SATA-ports. (mattering IDE-emulation) one of two IDE-modi)

for Windows: to see all SATA ports: ->Storage Configuration ->Enhanced ->IDE recommended to see all SATA-ports (mattering IDE-emulation) one of two IDE-modi) ;)
(at least with my mobo)
 
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Just in a worst case, what if EEPROM loses content, at least in area with laser calibration data and drv value, or it was fully erased, that method wouldn't help to restore your original firmware, at least not entirely, correct?

But only a theoretical question, not so important :)

But interesting method, and I'm not sure if I could follow all, (not done this in past)
---

Do you have a computer with IDE mode ?
Do you have external UHD unit with USB only, so without SATA internally?

By the way, I just tested Dosflash 2.0 with Win10 PE-method, to make a further dump of my Asus BW-16D1HT unit.
Just took a 64+32 Bit integrated Win10 installation usb-flash-drive, already having.
And booted the 32Bit version (the Installation-Windows-Boot-Manager will present Bootmenu to select 32 Bit or 64 Bit version)

In WinPE, pressed SHIFT+F10 to open cmd box. Opened directory with Dosflash started "DosFlash32_BH16NS40.exe"
Not necessary to disable driver signature signing. (Tried this, but Win10PE refuses to disable it)

Really works fine to get original dump with Dosflash 2.0.
Made a file compare check between "new" (by Dosflash_2.0 + Win10PE), and old one (by Dosflash_1.7 + FreeDOS) I already had. Checksum identical.
Then I'd say Dosflash_2.0 might be safer than with Dosflash_1.7. Because the task "Read" appears to be preselected.

Interestingly at frist Dosflash 2.0 detected my unit with, but it refused to read ("unknown chipset"): This was with ->"Storage-configuration" ->Compatible

But with this, detected unit and finally read (no comlaint about an unknown chipset)
Storage configuration ->Enhanced ->"IDE"

Dosflash 1.7 worked with both IDE-modis, (but Dosflash 2.0 appears safer to me than 1.7 for getting a unit's dump)

Correct on your first question. If you blast your calibration or bus encryption key, the method he's talking about won't help you. But if you're ONLY flashing with the patched windows flasher using a downgrade enabled firmware, then you're NOT going to touch those sections of the firmware anyway so you can restore it to the original firmware.

I have a Win10PE image that I can use with Rufus to create a bootable USB stick that can dump the firmware using dosflash 2.0. It works well, but, does require the sata IDE mode and connecting the drive to the first sata ports on your motherboard. So it's not for everyone. I've done dosflash 1.7, as well, but that method sometimes requires you to repeat it a few times before it picks up the drive and is able to extract the firmware.

In any case if you're using the patched windows exe flasher to flash a firmware it won't touch the "naughty" (lol) parts of your EEPROM and you should be fine without extracting the firmware. Good idea if you have the capability? Sure.
 
I have a Win10PE image that I can use with Rufus to create a bootable USB stick that can dump the firmware using dosflash 2.0. It works well, but, does require the sata IDE mode and connecting the drive to the first sata ports on your motherboard. So it's not for everyone. I've done dosflash 1.7, as well, but that method sometimes requires you to repeat it a few times before it picks up the drive and is able to extract the firmware.

I connected my drive to SATA port nr. 4 (5th SATA port Primary Master) per eSATA slotpanel.
While other SATA-devices left on lower ports. Works.
Well then seems mainbaord -dependent. Just a cheap bad-overclockable Asrock-baord ;)
 
I connected my drive to SATA port nr. 4 (5th SATA port Primary Master) per eSATA slotpanel.
While other SATA-devices left on lower ports. Works.
Well then seems mainbaord -dependent. Just a cheap bad-overclockable Asrock-baord ;)

It didn't on my ancient ASUS board. I had to move the drives to sata 1 and 2 ports. Given what I've read, I'd say you got lucky which is awesome. :D
 
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