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Copying Double Density Discs

taylormade

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Am I able to copy Double Density DVD's with any Slysoft product, If I only have a single density drive?
 
Am I able to copy Double Density DVD's with any Slysoft product, If I only have a single density drive?

Single density should only be for writing not reading so you can still back them up on your hard drive. Writing them is not possible, without a lot of effort, unless they are less than 25GB in size.


What drive do you have?
 
shrink them

I am aware of other software that shrinks DD DVD's down to fit on a Single.
Wondered if any SlyFox software did that.
 
I am aware of other software that shrinks DD DVD's down to fit on a Single.
Wondered if any SlyFox software did that.

Clonedvd compresses.

For double layer discs, I would recommend using Verbatim +R DL made in Singapore with Clonecd.

Both solutions require the use of Anydvd running in the background.
 
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Lite-On DVDRW LH-20A1H
Same as me :)

This is a dual-layer burner, so you can burn onto dual-layer discs, you can also use Nero (comes with the drive) to reduce the size. You can also use LtnRPC.exe to permanently remove region coding from the DVD Drive, the process is reversible (though why you'd want to I don't know!) I also recommend upgrading to the latest firmware if you haven't already; although liteon builds good drives they're somewhat lazy with releasing good firmware.

LtnRPC is here: http://digi.rpc1.org/rpc.htm (do not use Rpcde2 it's not for burners)
And the latest firmware is here: http://www.liteonit.com/DOWNLOADS/ODD/LH-20A1H/firmware/RW20LL0B.zip

Personally I always recommend using Taiyo Yuden media, or Ritek. I won't let my drive touch inferior media!
 
Lite-On DVDRW LH-20A1H

Your original post was in the AnyDVD HD forum, so I gave you a HD DVD/Blu-ray answer.

ClonedDVD will reduce the size to single-layer if you want it to but, like Webslinger, I recommend that you use DL discs instead (Yes, as Aractus said, your drive supports double-layer).

Before the price of DL discs came down, I made the mistake of recoding everything for single-layer. Now I'm having to go back and re-rip every movie to restore the original quality.

BTW, Slysoft software is great! It makes doing what you want to do with your media easy.
 
Ritek should be avoided. Much of it is horrible.
Well, with low-end hardware dvd players compatibility can be an issue, but with decent players it's really great value. Ritek is targeted by fake media from the "grey" market (so has Taiyo Yuden) but this should not be confused with the real stuff. If the Riteks don't do it for you, then you may as well go with Taiyo Yuden, it's less expensive then "Verbatim" and slightly better quality too.

Verbatim don't make their own discs (Verbatim is not a Singaporean company, so they must sub-contract those discs to be made, assuming the discs are produced in Singapore as Webslinger says). I would use slower speed media if choosing Ritek, 4x is their best; and if you're on a budget can work out to be excellent value. I only have 4x media right now, but ideally I'd keep 4x media for general-purpose burning, and 16x media for when I'm in a hurry. 4x may sound obsolete, but is better quality (I think the industry has rushed the speeds and is playing catch-up). 8x is probably just as good, but it's not like I burn disc-after-disc and care if I save 10 minutes burning time, because it's very rare that I'd be waiting to burn a 2nd disc! In an ideal world I'd even go as far to use +R discs for DATA use... but as I don't burn many data discs, I use -R always (+R isn't a real DVD format anyway; and just like bluray/hddvd it's bad for the consumer because even though competition is good, incompatibility is not).

Another common cause of failures is the use of stickers instead of direct-printing onto the disc's surface, which you should never do.

I buy my media from JPL... going on their prices for inkjet printable discs...

250 Verbatim - $138.00 = $0.552/disc

100 Taiyo Yuden - $55.00 = $0.55/disc

You don't have to buy as many Taiyo Yuden discs to get the same value - AND those Taiyo Yuden discs are 16x, the Verbatim ones are only 8x. My conclusion is that the Taiyo Yuden discs are far better value, but I would still swear by 4x Ritek media as possibly being the best overall value.
 
Well, with low-end hardware dvd players compatibility can be an issue, but with decent players it's really great value. Ritek is targeted by fake media from the "grey" market (so has Taiyo Yuden) but this should not be confused with the real stuff. If the Riteks don't do it for you, then you may as well go with Taiyo Yuden, it's less expensive then "Verbatim" and slightly better quality too.

Verbatim don't make their own discs (Verbatim is not a Singaporean company, so they must sub-contract those discs to be made, assuming the discs are produced in Singapore as Webslinger says). I would use slower speed media if choosing Ritek, 4x is their best; and if you're on a budget can work out to be excellent value. I only have 4x media right now, but ideally I'd keep 4x media for general-purpose burning, and 16x media for when I'm in a hurry. 4x may sound obsolete, but is better quality (I think the industry has rushed the speeds and is playing catch-up). 8x is probably just as good, but it's not like I burn disc-after-disc and care if I save 10 minutes burning time, because it's very rare that I'd be waiting to burn a 2nd disc! In an ideal world I'd even go as far to use +R discs for DATA use... but as I don't burn many data discs, I use -R always (+R isn't a real DVD format anyway; and just like bluray/hddvd it's bad for the consumer because even though competition is good, incompatibility is not).

Another common cause of failures is the use of stickers instead of direct-printing onto the disc's surface, which you should never do.

I buy my media from JPL... going on their prices for inkjet printable discs...

250 Verbatim - $138.00 = $0.552/disc

100 Taiyo Yuden - $55.00 = $0.55/disc

You don't have to buy as many Taiyo Yuden discs to get the same value - AND those Taiyo Yuden discs are 16x, the Verbatim ones are only 8x. My conclusion is that the Taiyo Yuden discs are far better value, but I would still swear by 4x Ritek media as possibly being the best overall value.

I don't believe Ritek has the self life or consistency of Verbatim or TY. There are lots of "Media Ratings" on the internet. Websligner could post those here. You'll see everyone (almost) agrees on Verbatim, TY, Maxell BQ as being the best.
 
W Ritek is targeted by fake media from the "grey"

Ritek is pretty low quality stuff (especially the 8x dvd-r and +R DLs). Right up there with Princo. People who know what they're doing in the burning community tend to avoid Ritek.


Verbatim don't make their own discs (Verbatim is not a Singaporean company, so they must sub-contract those discs to be made, assuming the discs are produced in Singapore as Webslinger says)

Verbatim is a subsidiary of Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation of Japan, whose plant in Singapore makes DL and RW media.

Verbatim +R DL and its RW line is made by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation's plant in Singapore (with the exception of some of the newer +R DL being made in India, which I have so far, managed to avoid). Verbatim +R DL made in Singapore is the only +R DL blank media worth using.


If Verbatim media is made in Taiwan, it's made by CMC or Prodisc.
If Verbatim media is made in India, it's made by MBIL (Moser Baer).
If Verbatim media is made in Japan, it's most likely made by Taiyo Yuden (Yuden000T02 16x dvd+r made in Japan and sold under Verbatim's label, for example).
If it's made in Singapore, then it's made by Mitsubishi's plant (usually limited to RW and DL media).

Of these choices, I like what I've seen from Mitsubishi's plant in Singapore the best.

The CMC and Prodisc Verbatim media is also held to higher standards than the blank media made under those names for other companies.

but I would still swear by 4x Ritek media as possibly being the best overall value.

RitekG04 isn't horrible (almost decent; so I don't completely disagree with you as far as RG04 goes). However, once you move into the faster (8x dvd-r) lines, Ritek is horrible (especially for longevity . . yet another example of the digitalfaq being outdated) and should almost always be avoided; Ritek is not quality blank media, and mentioning Ritek/Ridata in the same breath as Verbatim is almost laughable. Ritek +R DL sold under Memorex's (and others') name is, in particular, junk.

"Ritek is "ok" if you only need your media to last 2-6 months or so. Keeping in mind some Ritek DVD-R media has been known to fail in less then 2 months...

Ritek DVD+R media is "ok", and usually lasts longer then 6 months. But it's not so great compared to Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim"

--The Digital Dolphin (mod and reviewer at cdrlabs, former mod at cdrinfo . . . and one of the few people who burns and tests blank media on an industrial level . . . ): http://club.cdfreaks.com/showpost.php?p=1466415&postcount=24

RG05 already has a reputation of failing in under 2 years; RitekF1 has Fuji dye, and it's supposed to be a lot better than the dye in G05. Time will tell. Regardless, the smart money is on avoiding Ritek.
 
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Ritek is pretty low quality stuff. Right up there with Princo. People who know what they're doing in the burning community tend to avoid Ritek.
Here is a review of the burner we're talking about, burning different media:

http://www.cdfreaks.com/reviews/Lite-On-LH-20A1H-DVD-Burner-Review/DVD-R_RW-Writing-Performance.html

Compare the Ritek result to the Verbatim result:

Code:
Brand:
 Traxdata – Thanks to Conrexx Europe for sending us this media.
 
Manufacturer:
 RiTEK
 
Code:
 RITEK F1
 
Disc Type:
 DVD-R
 
Capacity:
 4483MB
 
Certified Speed:
 16x
 
Write Speed:
 16x
 
Write Time:
 5m:50s
 
PI-8 errors Average/Sec:
 2.94
 
PI-1 failures (PIF) Avg/Sec:
 0.09

Code:
Brand:
 Traxdata ValuePack
 
Manufacturer:
 RiTEK
 
Code:
 RITEK F1
 
Disc Type:
 DVD-R
 
Capacity:
 4483MB
 
Certified Speed:
 16x
 
Write Speed:
 16x
 
Write Time:
 5m:50s
 
PI-8 errors Average/Sec:
 7.81
 
PI-1 failures (PIF) Avg/Sec:
 0.05

Code:
Brand:
 Verbatim Photo Printable – Thanks to Verbatim (UK) for sending us this media.
 
Manufacturer:
 Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation
 
Code:
 MCC 03R G20
 
Disc Type:
 DVD-R
 
Capacity:
 4483MB
 
Certified Speed:
 16x
 
Write Speed:
 18x
 
Write Time:
 5m:28s
 
PI-8 errors Average/Sec:
 2.63
 
PI-1 failures (PIF) Avg/Sec:
 0.08

Code:
Brand:
 Verbatim - Thanks to Verbatim (UK)
for sending us this media.
 
Manufacturer:
 Mitsubishi Kagaku Media
 
Code:
 MKM 01RW 6X01
 
Disc Type:
 DVD-RW
 
Capacity:
 4483MB
 
Certified Speed:
 6x
 
Write Speed:
 6x
 
Write Time:
 11m:03s
 
PI-8 errors Average/Sec:
 7.68
 
PI-1 failures (PIF) Avg/Sec:
 0.00

Yes I'm sure Verbatim is better quality... however Ritek burns very well on the dirve, and the media is half the price. I'd also bet that the Ritek-branded (or unbranded printable discs) would be better quality then the Traxdata-branded stuff. RITEK G05... yes rubbish (but it still reads fine and anyway the RiDisc stuff is known to be a poor quality example of the G05). G04 was much, much better, I've had no problems with it not lasting. Of course not all G04's were equal.. but that is a discussion for another day. G05 was a proven formula, and when manufactured correctly was excellent quality. One bad dye doesn't mean all their discs suck. I wouldn't recommend their re-branded discs either, because it is true that you can get anything from utter crap-grade to B-grade (yes, I've always considered Ritek "B-Grade"). Anyway, I can see why you don't like the brand.

Thanks for the additional info on Verbatim. The longest-lasting discs, are still Taiyo Yuden, but again I'm sure Verbatim isn't far behind and one day might be better. Competition is good, and makes them better discs.
 
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Here is a review of the burner we're talking about, burning different media:

Ok, so Verbatim had less errors, on average, in all cases than Ritek (you included a RW test, but didn't include the RW test with Ritek). G05, as I noted, should generally be avoided. I'm not arguing whether it's possible to produce decent burn quality with Ritek media. What I call into question is how long that burn quality will last.

G04 was much, much better.


Wouldn't be too difficult. And I agree. As I said before, G04 wasn't horrible (decent, on average; and sometimes good).

Yes I'm sure Verbatim is better quality... however Ritek burns very well on the dirve, and the media is half the price.

The question is whether it will last as long as similarly rated (speed rating) Verbatim blank media.


The longest-lasting discs, are still Taiyo Yuden.

No. Unless you're talking about Taiyo Yuden's That's Triple Guard (which I haven't been able to find), many will last longer than 16x TY Premiums, including Maxell Broadcast Quality, Verbatim Ultralife Gold 8x DVD-R, Maxell Plus (this was TYG02 on occasion though), and Verbatim (Verbatim did not suffer from the same bonding issues found occasionally on TYs 16x Premium line). Inital burn quality on TY Premium is usually better than all other brands (how long that lasts for though is in question). TYs 8x Premium line, however, is excellent.

Here's one (Japanese) individual's UV test:

http://dvd-r.jpn.org/beam/index.html
 
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Ok, so Verbatim had less errors, on average, in all cases than Ritek (you included a RW test, but didn't include the RW test with Ritek).
It's not my website, don't ask me how they chose the media and decided what speeds to burn them at.
The question is whether it will last as long as similarly rated (speed rating) Verbatim blank media.
...hmmm, I don't think this will go anywhere fast; as far as you and I know Ritek's F1 could last 100 years - but you can't TEST that, and you can't test it for T-Y or Verbatim either. All you can go by is experience and what it's designed for. At any rate, no DVD-R will ever last forever, no CD-R will and no HD-DVD or BluRay-R's will either (especially not BluRay as it's burnt closer to the surface!) There's probably only a certain number of times you could read -R material too, before the data becomes too difficult for the laser to read.

If the F1 Ritek dye only lasts 2 years, then it will suck. But we'll have to wait and see, after all Verbatim could do the same thing and switch to a new dye designed to last longer that actually doesn't.
 
It's not my website

The Ritek RW media test was included at cdfreaks. If your point is that most of the Ritek media with the exception of G05 burned reasonably well, then, I agree. Regardless, Ritek +R DL media, and 8x Ritek dvd-r should be avoided.

as far as you and I know Ritek's F1 could last 100 years - but you can't TEST that

I doubt that much, and I don't have much hope for most discs in general lasting longer than 20 years.

However, The Digital Dolphin's tests should prove interesting:
http://cdrlabs.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=21953&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0
when the results are published.


and you can't test it for T-Y or Verbatim either.

Yes, you can. Longevity studies have been published in the past for cd-r media, proving that "phthalocyanine combined with a gold-silver alloy as a reflective layer was consistently more stable than all other types of CD-R media". visit http://www.film-to-video.com/study/StabilityStudy.htm

Similar tests can also be done for dvd blank media (and people could be very specific with brand names and media codes if they wanted to).

But those are stress tests/advanced aging tests. What the Digital Dolphin is doing hasn't been done (no advanced age testing). He's not subjecting blank discs to nasty stuff. So the results of his testing (which has caught the eyes of Sony and other companies) will be interesting.


All you can go by is experience and what it's designed for.

I base my recommendations on my personal quality blank media tests, longevity tests, and the tests of others whom I trust in the online community. I don't think you're going to find very many people slamming Verbatim (although some of the PAP6 and MAP6 serials from CMC sold under Verbatim's name were disturbing to say the least, but the entire batch/line wasn't affected).

At any rate, no DVD-R will ever last forever, no CD-R will and no HD-DVD or BluRay-R's will either (especially not BluRay as it's burnt closer to the surface!)

I agree with you here 100%.
 
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The Ritek RW media test was included at cdfreaks.
Fair enough - I'd use A-Grade media for RW anyway, not Ritek.
I doubt that much, and I don't have much hope for most discs in general lasting longer than 20 years.
CD-R's haven't even existed yet for 20 years.
Yes, you can. Longevity studies have been published in the past for cd-r media
Yes but still under controlled conditions which do not fully represent real-time longevity. It's true those tests may indicate which discs will last longer in real life - but it still will never prove with certainty how long they will last in real life. The test you're looking at won't highlight the possibly variance in quality, nor the actual average degradation times as the test samples are so small - but it looks interesting, and should yield some tangible results (it's like testing sun damage on cars using mirrors - it's not a perfect representation of a real life timeline).

Personally I'm far more worried about BluRay winning over HD-DVD; as their disc structure is compromised to squeeze higher quality out of it; and you can bet that the day will come when everyone agrees that HD-DVD recordable media is higher quality then BluRay-R/RW.
 
CD-R's haven't even existed yet for 20 years.

Yes. And I'm skeptical most will (blank dvd-r media, even less so).

Yes but still under controlled conditions which do not fully represent real-time longevity. It's true those tests may indicate which discs will last longer in real life - but it still will never prove with certainty how long they will last in real life.

I agree. Too many variables (but as you say, it should provide some indication of which discs should last longer) . . .

The test you're looking at won't highlight the possibly variance in quality, nor the actual average degradation times as the test samples are so small -

Which one? Both the NIST study and the other one I linked to did not use tiny sample sizes.

but it looks interesting, and should yield some tangible results (it's like testing sun damage on cars using mirrors - it's not a perfect representation of a real life timeline)

Oh, that Japanese test. Yeah, that's just one individual's study. I think most people could punch holes through it very easily. However, the results haven't overtly surprised me (with a couple of exceptions . . . how does "D" suddenly turn into "A" . . .).

Personally I'm far more worried about BluRay winning over HD-DVD; as their disc structure is compromised to squeeze higher quality out of it; and you can bet that the day will come when everyone agrees that HD-DVD recordable media is higher quality then BluRay-R/RW.

I know it's considered sacrilegious of me to say so on these forums, but I am not greatly worried about this format "war" (If James reads this, he'll probably want to smack me). That said, I am not fond of all these crazy restrictions on Blu-Ray (if BD+ requires people to update their firmware frequently . . . *sigh* I really don't understand why they feel that won't inconvenience the consumer), and having the data layer so close to the outside does present some concerns.
 
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Webslinger, I think you found the fast track to Ritek customer service.;)
 
Which one? Both the NIST study and the other one I linked to did not use tiny sample sizes.
Yes I'm sure they're good at averages.
I know it's considered sacrilegious of me to say so on these forums, but I am not greatly worried about this format "war" (If James reads this, he'll probably want to smack me). That said, I am not fond of all these crazy restrictions on Blu-Ray (if BD+ requires people to update their firmware frequently . . . *sigh* I really don't understand why they feel that won't inconvenience the consumer), and having the data layer so close to the outside does present some concerns.
The problem with BR isn't that the data is closer to the surface, but that it's an imperfect format that's been compromised to achieve a higher amount of storage (the process through which discs are pressed -or recording media is made is much more complex, hence more things can go wrong). At the same time, their players, although more expensive have lower standards then HD-DVD ones. I think that the early days, which we're in, at the moment will be bad for BluRay, because it will establish their reputation; and all the hype about the "quality" will lead to customer dissatisfaction. Especially when customers begin to realize the BD discs aren't using the full storage potential anyway.
 
Yes I'm sure they're good at averages.

The NIST study (and others) have been conclusive as far as phthalocyanine dye resistance to UV goes. And organic chemistry studies on the subject also show this. It has nothing to do with averages: it's a scientific fact.

The problem with BR isn't that the data is closer to the surface

It is a problem especially if the top coating starts to go (when the top/scratch coatings of cd-rs start to flake, you generally still have a shot at getting the data backed up):

http://www.engadgethd.com/2007/06/16/blu-ray-disc-coatings-starting-to-rot/

With Blu-ray even slight scratches can present serious problems.
 
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