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Need help copying a protected cd

ecstech

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Hi folks,

I've got a CD of MathCAD 2001i, its old... the company no longer exists as it got bought over and its no longer supported.

This CD cost us a few hundred quid and it doesn't look like I can get another one!

So, I thought I'd try backing it up being IT admin here.

I figured out quickly that it is copy protected as areas will not copy with ImgBurn.

Protector ID seems to think its Safedisc 2.60.052

I'm using CC 5.3.10 on Windows XP Pro SP2 with CD Burner:

Manufacturer: PLEXTOR
Product: CD-R PX-W4012A
Revision: 1.07

I'm using TDK CD-R80 blue label CD-Rs.

I tried using CC's 'Protected PC Game' profile to make an Image.
This it did.

To ensure it was a valid image I tried to re-create the CD.

I put in a blank CD-R and made a CD from Image again using the 'Protected PC Game' profile.

But the CD-R disc isn't correct. The software on my PC needs to validate the CD and claims it isn't the original CD.

So as this is the very first CD I've tried to copy that's had copy protection, I'm at a loss.

I read in these Forums that CC is suppose to copy Safedisc discs?

Can it do V2.60 though?

I've came across old V4 profiles of CC that are Safedisc 2 [ignore], Safedisc 2 [Amplify], Safedisc 2 [Emulate].

But how does one use these? What does 'amplify' do? They don't come with any explanation on their use. :bang:

Can some bright spark help me out? :bowdown:

P.S.
My Lowerfilters in the registry is 'ElbyCDFL'.
I don't appear to have a Upperfilters entry.
 
I read in these Forums that CC is suppose to copy Safedisc discs?

Can it do V2.60 though?

It's drive dependent.

Anyway, have Clonecdtray running in the background, try right clicking on the icon in your toolbar and selecting "hide cd-r media". Then try running your backup.

If that doesn't work, I'd try Game Jackal.

I'm using TDK CD-R80 blue label CD-Rs.

Avoid
Use Maxell CD-R Pro (these are Taiyo Yudens with a protective coating), Verbatim Datalife Plus, or Taiyo Yuden
 
I don't have a CC tray icon in the system tray to do this. :)

So are you saying with it not running, I should be ok to do this?
 
So, run the program.
No. I am saying run Clonecdtray.exe

Ah.. Ok I'll do that. :agree:
But what does it do when you switch on this option?
Does it hide the CD material info?

BTW what's wrong with this TDK make of CDs? They came from a reputable supplier (Radio Spares) and after tests they seem to keep their data for the last 3 years we've used them.

Is it the dye type you object to?
You can't just state an objection without citing references to back you up? 8)
 
Does it hide the CD material info?

It's an ATIP hider. It basically hides the fact that your backup is a cd-r. You need to select "hide cd-r media".

That still may not work, and in that case, you may want to try Game Jackal (for emulation purposes).

BTW what's wrong with this TDK make of CDs? They came from a reputable supplier (Radio Spares) and after tests they seem to keep their data for the last 3 years we've used them.

Is it the dye type you object to?
You can't just state an objection without citing references to back you up? 8)

Yeah, I can. And I can't really be bothered. If you want to ignore what I wrote with respect to blank media, do what you want. TDKs cd-rs have sometimes been made by Ritek, which are pure junk. Granted, I don't know for sure that the ones you're using are, but I do know I don't like to play guessing games when I buy blank media. But do what you want. I honestly don't have the time nor the inclination to try to convince people. http://www.cdmediaworld.com/hardware/cdrom/cd_tdk_iq.shtml

There's a reason why most in the online burning community know to use Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden.

I get enough problems in the Anydvd/Clonedvd forums with people using junk blank dvds (b-grade TDKs made by Ritek and sold by Costcos in North America, Memorex, Ritek, Princo, etc.). I honestly can't be bothered.

If I said, "there's no gravity; the earth sucks", then I suppose I might feel inclined to cite references.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Weblinger for the fiesty reply! :)

I tried clonecdtray and the 'Cloak Media' option as its now called. ;-)

Yes this appears to work.

Getting the CD copied to .iso was more trouble. I did this eventually with Imgburn and used Daemon Tools Lite to make a virtual CD of it and this worked.
Daemon tools also allow ATIP info to be hidden.

Regarding using quality media, yes I agree there is a lot of junk around and I spoke to the RS sales person on this matter. They assured us that as they supply to the industry they only sell good quality media. We did do tests and our TDK is made by Ricoh Company and is Dye type Phthalocyanine type 6 which doesn't appear to be listed on CDmediaworld.
So I'll try to submit it.
I wouldn't touch Cyanine (Type 0) with a long stick. :)
 
making an iso of a protected disk is pointless.. the iso standard does NOT have the space to record the extra data that the protection checks for... you're better off making it a clone cd format or using alcohol/daemon tools and making it mdf/mfs format... only then will it work..

once burned (and atip hidden) it doesn't really matter on the dye etc.. one thing i have learned from playing with safedisc backups, is that the LOWER the speed they are written to (generally i used 2x / 4x), the HIGHER the chances of the cdcheck actually passing are... thats only for cd's though, dvd doesnt seem to care as much...
 
Thanks for that.
I've made a .iso recording and a cloneCD img.
Both seem to work actually.

Interesting what you say about dyes and safedisc backups
I've a old Sony DVD player parked next to my TV. This doesn't like playing audio CD-Rs at all. But will play them if I use Phthalocyanine type 6 gold/green CD-Rs and burn slowly at 2x-4x.

I suppose its the shape of the burn spots. At lower speeds they're more likely to be the right shape (round). At faster speed they turn into droplet shapes which causes data read errors on their trailing edges?

A few years ago I used PRINCO CDr and these were brillant. Then they got sued for patent ripoff and stopped making them.

I wonder what the very best CD-R is?
Verbatim? But which one?
 
CD-Rs = Maxell CD-R Pro (these are Taiyo Yudens with a protective coating), Verbatim Datalife Plus, Taiyo Yuden
DVD±Rs = Maxell Broadcast Quality Series 8x (not regular junk Maxells you find everywhere), Verbatim 8x & 16x, Taiyo Yuden (not Valueline) 8x
DVD+R DLs = Verbatim made in Singapore (not India), MAM-A 8x
DVD-R DL = nothing, because it's a useless format
 
Hmm I though DVD-R was the prefered disc to use to make movie DVDs as its more compatible with a wider range of DVD players than DVD+R?
 
Hmm I though DVD-R was the prefered disc to use to make movie DVDs as its more compatible with a wider range of DVD players than DVD+R?

No. Dvd+r has an advantage in that it's booktype can be changed to "dvd-rom"; programs that check are unable to tell based simply on booktype that you're using a blank disc.
 
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